Thursday, June 2, 2011

Cape Reinga

Our next stop was the town of Kaitaia, just at the southern tip of the Aupouri peninsula that extends north to Cape Reinga. It was more of a working town and a jumping off point for tours to 90 Mile Beach and Cape Reinga. The first afternoon we got there was spent napping, but we decided to venture out to the southern end of 90 Mile Beach to watch the sunset. It was a short 20 minute drive to a town called Ahipara. Once there, we attempted to drive onto the beach (which is allowed for the entire thing)--but on our first attempt we got a little stuck. Instead of driving down the packed down paths made by previous cars, we drove right down the center--1st mistake. Then we stopped for kids on ATVs to go past--2nd mistake. Oh, and by "we" I mean "John" :) Luckily a nice Maori guy with a 4-wheel drive SUV and tow rope pulled us out. I caught the whole thing on video!


We then parked our car at a nice, non-likely-to-get-suck spot and enjoyed watching the sunset over the Tasman Sea on the west coast.






The next morning it was up early for our tour to Cape Reinga! We chose the tour that included a bit of Maori culture as we started off the morning with a traditional Maori morning welcome called a Powhiri. The first thing we had to do with our tour group (of 7 people) was choose a chief! As it had to be male, and we had 4 males, we had quite the selection. In the end, I pushed John forward and elected him to be chief! Here is him taking on his chief-dom:


Next we stood outside a replica of a traditional Maori household and watched as the chief of their tribe performed a haka (warrior dance) and presented us with a fern as an offering. We went inside and watched the women and men perform the traditional greeting that included song and dance. It was quite interesting. We learned that, way back when, when Maori men would stick out their tongues, it usually meant (when used in battle) that the man was saying "When I defeat you, I will take possession of your wife." Apparently now it's just a sign of masculinity. Anywho, after the performance John got to stand up and thank them for their welcome on behalf of his "tribe" and shook hands. We got pictures with them all afterwards!



It was an energetic start to the morning and we were ready to head north! First we headed to 90 Mile Beach--which we learned is not actually 90 miles. It's really just about 90 Kilometers. However, the Europeans that first traveled on it walked 30 miles the first day and it took them 3 days to complete the trek--hence the name. As we drove along we passed what was left of a car (some bumper and break pedal) sticking out from the sand where it was swallowed after an unsuccessful passing. Glad we didn't try to take our car the whole way down! We also drove through some yucky weather, but luckily it cleared as we neared the Cape. The weather really cooperated for us the whole day.


Our next stop was the big Te Paki sand dunes to do some sand tobogganing! The tour bus had sleds for us and we just had to climb up a tall, sandy hill and the tour guide would push us back down. It was great fun, but rather tiring to climb up sand--so we each only did it twice. 







Next, it was time for lunch! The tour guide brought us to a beautiful little bay on the east side of the peninsula, called Tapotupotu Bay. It was a beautiful little cove and we had all the sunshine we could want!


Next it was time for the climax of the trip--Cape Reinga. In Maori culture, Cape Reinga has very special spiritual significance. They believe the souls of their loved ones follow a trail up the North Island to Cape Reinga where they go down to some cliffs right next to the lighthouse, where a single tree remains alive in the hostile environment,  and dive into the sea, heading back to their homeland of Hawaiki. It was a very beautiful place. It's also where the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea meet. You can watch as the current run into and whirl around each other. Apparently, on some days, you can get 10-foot high waves! 









This is an ancient kahika tree called Te Aroha.


Spirits descend to the water on steps formed from the tree's roots. This particular type of tree is known to survive in hostile in environments--especially here on the side of a rock face with harsh, salt water winds. However, this sole tree has never been known to flower. 

It was a special place and I'm glad we were able to make the journey in such good weather!

On the way back to Kaitaia we made a few pit stops.  I was quite sleepy for a good part of it, as I assume the other people on the bus were as well. So, the driver stopped at a little ice cream place in the middle of nowhere, and we got some yummy ice cream (and a lot!). A small there was three huge scoops! Way more than I expected. We also made one more stop at a white sand beach on the east coast called Rawawa Beach. White sand beaches are not very common in New Zealand, like the are in say Florida, so it was pretty special to visit one. 


We made it back to Kaitaia, beating the rain that would inevitably come in the next few days, resting up for our adventure south, along the west coast, to the Waipoua Forest!

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